- Posted at Oct 25, 2017
- in Το blog μας - ενημέρωση
Νάξος
Η Νάξος παραμένει ένας από τα ελάχιστα μέρη της Ευρώπης που δεν έχει εμφανιστεί στην εκμετάλλευση των αιγοπροβάτων μελιταίος πυρετός, για αυτό και απαγορεύεται αυστηρά η εισαγωγή «νέου αίματος», δηλαδή εισαγόμενων ζώων για κτηνοτροφική εκμετάλλευση αιγοπρόβατα στη Νάξο είναι 180.000 και αυστηρά γηγενή, για αυτό το κράτος είχε επιτρέψει την κατά εξαίρεση τυροκομία νωπού γάλακτος, διότι τα παραδοσιακά τυριά αρσενικό και ξινότυρο δεν παράγονται μετά από παστερίωση ή βράσιμο του γάλακτος.
Προϊόντα
Η Νάξος φημίζεται για τα κτηνοτροφικά της προϊόντα, όπως τυρί (γραβιέρα, κεφαλοτύρι (γνωστό ως αρσενικό), ανθότυρο, ξυνότυρο, μυζήθρα) και κρέας. Ειδικότερα για τα τοπικά προϊόντα Νάξου αξίζει να αναφερθούν τα ακόλουθα στοιχεία κατ’ είδος:
- Το λεγόμενο αρσενικό κεφαλοτύρι παρασκευάζεται από κατσικοπρόβειο γάλα κυρίως εκ των ορεινών χωριών, που συλλέγεται συνήθως στις στάνες ή μέσα στους μητάτους, και που με τη προσθήκη της "πυτιάς" δίνει τη λεγόμενη "μανούρα" η οποία στη συνέχεια στραγγίζεται μέσα σε ψάθινα καλαθάκια (φτιαγμένα από ξεραμένα βούρλα) τα λεγόμενα "τσιμίσκια". Αφού στραγγίξουν στη συνέχεια αφαιρούνται από τα τσιμίσκια και τοποθετούνται πάνω σε τάβλες σε δροσερό και σκοτεινό μέρος, στις οικίες ή στους μητάτους. Μετά παρέλευση έξι περίπου μηνών στη διάρκεια των οποίων γίνονται τακτικές επαλείψεις με αγνό λάδι το αρσενικό κεφαλοτύρι είναι έτοιμο προς κατανάλωση με μια ιδιαίτερη χαρακτηριστική γεύση.
- Το λεγόμενο λαδότυρο (Νάξου) είναι το αρσενικό τυρί που δημιουργείται αν τοποθετηθεί στη συνέχεια της παρασκευής του σε δοχείο με ελαιόλαδο για χρονικό διάστημα περίσσότερο των τριών μηνών. Πρόκειται για πικάντικο τυρί που συνοδεύεται με ρακί ασφαλώς τοπική.
- Η λεγόμενη γλυκιά μυζήθρα (Νάξου) παρασκευάζεται και αυτή από κατσικοπρόβειο γάλα. Κατά την τυροκόμηση του αρσενικού αφαιρείται η "μανούρα" (από την οποία παρασκευάζεται το αρσενικό τυρί) και μέσα από το καζάνι συλλέγεται πλέον η γλυκιά μυζήθρα η οποία και αυτή τοποθετείται σε ειδικά δοχεία. Πρόκειται για ιδιαίτερο τυροκομικό ανάλατο προϊόν περισσότερο για διατροφή χωρίς λιπαρά.
- Όπως υπάρχει το λεγόμενο "αρσενικό" τυρί, παρασκευάζεται στη Νάξο και το θηλυκό τυρί το λεγόμενο και ανθότυρο. Το ανθότυρο είναι μετασχηματισμένη μυζήθρα που έχει μείνει για φύλαξη περισσότερο από ένα χρόνο. Πρόκειται για προϊόν που εμφανίζεται ελαφρά αλατισμένο στερούμενο λιπαρών.
- Το ξινόγαλα ή ξινόγαλο παρασκευάζεται από ανόθευτο κρύο κατσικίσιο γάλα με τη προσθήκη πυτιάς το οποίο στη συνέχεια αν στραγγιστεί δημιουργείται η ξινομυζίθρα. Με προσθήκη λίγο πιπέρι παρουσιάζει μια πικάντική εξαιρετική νοστιμιά.
- Το λεγόμενο ξυνότυρο είναι ο μετασχηματισμός της ξυνομυζίθρας μετά από το στέγνωμά της για μερικές εβδομάδες πάνω σε τάβλες. Είναι προϊόν που με τη πάροδο του χρόνου λαμβάνει ιδιαίτερη απολαυστική γεύση.
- Τέλος η γραβιέρα Νάξου είναι ένα τυποποιημένο τυρί που παρασκευάζεται από αγελαδινό γάλα, στη πεδινή κυρίως Νάξο από την Ένωση Αγροτικών Συνεταιρισμών Νάξου που έχει καταξιωθεί για τη μοναδική απολαυστική της γεύση.
Ανεπτυγμένη είναι επίσης και η αγροτική παραγωγή με προϊόντα όπως πατάτες, κρεμμύδια, κρασί, ελιές (επιτραπέζιες γνωστές ως ασκούδες), λάδι, ρακί και το τοπικό ποτό κίτρο. Παράγονται ακόμα εσπεριδοειδή και διάφορα γλυκά κουταλιού (σταφύλι, βύσσινο, κεράσι, νεράντζι, περγαμόντο, σύκο, καρυδάκι κ.ά.). Σημαντικός είναι και ο ορυκτός πλούτος. Στη Νάξο βρίσκεται, κοντά στο χωριό Κόρωνος το μοναδικό στον κόσμο ορυχείο σμύριδας, ενώ γνωστά ήδη από την αρχαιότητα είναι ακόμα τα μάρμαρα και ο γρανίτης που προέρχονται από το νησί. Αξιοσημείωτα είναι και τα πολιτιστικά δρώμενα του νησιού, με σημείο αναφοράς τα παραδοσιακά δημοτικά-νησιώτικα τραγούδια τα οποία στην συντριπτική πλειοψηφία τους γράφτηκαν από τη γνωστή μουσική οικογένεια των Κονιτόπουλων, βασιζόμενοι στα απεραθήτικα κοτσάκια.
Η βλάστηση του νησιού, ποτισμένη από την αλμύρα της θάλασσας, προσδίδει στο αιγοπρόβειο γάλα και κατ’ επέκταση στο τυρί μία ιδιαιτερότητα. Ο καυτός ήλιος, μοναδικός σε όλη τη Μεσόγειο, βοηθάει στην ανάπτυξη των μυκήτων της ζύμωσης και έτσι έχουμε πραγματικά μοναδικά τυριά. Στη Νάξο, όπως και σε άλλα νησιά των Κυκλάδων, υπάρχει επίσης μακρά παράδοση τυριών με βάση το αγελαδινό γάλα, που φθάνει πίσω στα χρόνια
Αρσενικό τυρί Νάξου
Γενικά χαρακτηριστικά
Η Νάξος φημίζεται για την παραγωγή τυριών όπως αρσενικό, γραβιέρα Νάξου, μυζήθρα, ξινομυζήθρα, τουλουμοτύρι, ανθότυρο, αφρομυζήθρα Νάξου, θηλυκοτύρι, κεφαλοτύρι, κοπανιστή, λαδοτύρι και μανούρι. Το Αρσενικό θεωρείται ο βασιλιάς όλων των άλλων τυριών, καθώς οι άλλοι τύποι τυριών είναι ασθενέστεροι και ελαφρύτεροι. Το Αρσενικό Νάξου έχει χιλίων ετών παράδοση, καταγεγραμμένη στο χωριό Κόρωνος Νάξου. Η ονομασία αρσενικό έχει βρεθεί καταγεγραμμένη σε παλιά αρχεία το 1000 μ.Χ., αλλά θεωρείται ότι έτσι λεγόταν και φτιαχνόταν από πολύ παλαιότερα. Το όνομα του Αρσενικό του δόθηκε καθώς είναι το πιο δυνατό μέρος της καζανιάς (ένα καζάνι γεμάτο γάλα σε τυρί) όλο το πηγμένο γάλα λέγεται διάφορο, από το οποίο βγαίνει το γιαούρτι ,η γλυκιά μυζήθρα, το ξινόγαλα και το αρσενικό. Το αρσενικό είναι το πιο δυνατό από τα υπόλοιπα σε γεύση, ποιότητα και ασβέστιο.
Το γνήσιο Αρσενικό τυρί είναι αυτό που φτιάχνουν οι τσοπάνηδες με απαστερίωτο γάλα.
Τα τελευταία χρόνια στην Νάξο δημιουργήθηκαν ιδιωτικά τυροκομία καθώς και ένα συνεταιριστικό {ΕΑΣ}.Oι επιχειρηματίες κατοχύρωσαν στο εμπορικό επιμελητήριο την παραδοσιακή ονομασία Αρσενικό τυρί, το οποίο φτιάχνεται μόνο με απαστερίωτο γάλα και το πουλούν με αυτήν την ονομασία την τελευταία δεκαετία στην αγορά καθώς και στο διαδίκτυο. Το κεφαλοτύρι κατοχύρωσε την ονομασία Αρσενικό κεφαλοτύρι Νάξου, χωρίς όμως να τηρεί τον παραδοσιακό τρόπο παραγωγής και το τελικό προϊόν διαφέρει από το γνήσιο. Οι τσοπάνηδες τυροκόμοι δεν είχαν την γνώση, την ευκαιρία και την οργάνωση να κατοχυρώσουν εκείνοι την αυθεντική παραδοσιακή ονομασία.
Το αρσενικό τυρί αποτελεί αναπόσπαστο κομμάτι της διατροφής και της παράδοσης των Αξωτών, εφόσον για αρκετές γενιές μαζί με το ελαιόλαδο έπαιζε βασικό ρόλο στη διατροφή τους, επειδή είναι πολύ θρεπτικό και χορταστικό. Οι τσοπάνηδες-τυροκόμοι επιμένουν και σήμερα παρά τις δυσκολίες να παράγουν το τυρί με τον παραδοσιακό τρόπο. Επίσης δεν διαθέτουν το γάλα στις βιομηχανίες, αλλά το εκμεταλλεύονται οι ίδιοι και έτσι διατηρούν την παράδοση.
Η ιδιαίτερη γεύση και μοναδικότητα του αρσενικού τυριού της Νάξου οφείλεται στο γεγονός ότι το γάλα δεν είναι βρασμένο, έτσι πολλά από τα ζωντανά ένζυμα δεν έχουν νεκρωθεί, όπως λένε και οι τσοπάνηδες είναι ένα ζωντανό τυρί, εφόσον ανά δύο έως τρεις μήνες αλλάζει η γεύση του και καθώς περνάνε οι μήνες γίνεται περισσότερο πικάντικο και αρωματικό. Επιπλέον, το παραδοσιακό τυρί που φτιάχνουν οι βοσκοί τυροκομείται με ζωική πυτιά, δηλαδή υγρό που βγαίνει από το στομαχάκι του αρνιού γάλακτος και από αυστηρά αιγοπρόβειο γάλα. Μετά από ένα χρόνο περίπου γίνεται μια περεταίρω διαδικασία αλείφοντας το με μούργα λαδιού ή τοποθετώντας το σε ελαιόλαδο ή εμποτίζεται σε κρασί και έχουμε το παραδοσιακό κρασοτύρι. Όταν αυτό βρίσκεται στα πρώτα στάδια ονομάζεται κωμό και είναι μαλακό. Σε αυτό μπορούν να προστεθεί σκόρδο, ονομάζεται σκορδότυρο σαγανάκι είτε ορισμένα βότανα και ονομάζεται κωμός με βότανα.
Διαφορές παραδοσιακού αρσενικού από το βιομηχανικό
Σήμερα το αρσενικό τυρί φτιάχνεται από τρία ή τέσσερα σύγχρονα τυροκομία στην Νάξο, αλλά με διαφορετική μέθοδο από την παραδοσιακή, δηλαδή με την μέθοδο της παστερίωσης και με σύγχρονες μεθόδους εκμετάλλευσης. Αυτό έχει ως αποτέλεσμα το γάλα κατ’ επέκταση και το τυρί να έχει διαφορετική αντίδραση και το τελικό προϊόν διαφορετικές ιδιότητες από αυτές του παραδοσιακού. Παραδείγματος χάρη το παραδοσιακό αρσενικό αν το αφήσεις στο τραπέζι μέσα σε ένα μπολ για να μην ξεραθεί ή αν δεν έχει τεμαχισθεί το αφήσεις μέσα στη λαδόκολλα με τη μούργα λαδιού δεν αλλοιώνεται ούτε μαλακώνει ακόμα και αν περάσουν ένα με δυο χρόνια. Αν όμως κάνει κάποιος το ίδιο με το τυρί που έχει παρασκευαστεί με διαφορετική μέθοδο από την παραδοσιακή το τυρί αυτό θα χαλάσει, θα αλλοιωθεί και θα μαλακώσει σαν πλαστελίνη εκτός ψυγείου μέσα σε δύο με τρεις μέρες. Επιπλέον το βιομηχανικό προϊόν διαφέρει από το παραδοσιακό τυρί στο ότι το πρώτο ωριμάζει και συντηρείται κάτω από αυστηρά ελεγχόμενες συνθήκες υγρασίας, θερμοκρασίας και περιβάλλοντος. Αυτό το κάνει πολύ ευαίσθητο στην παραμικρή έκθεση σε μικρόβια, αλλά και στις εναλλαγές της θερμοκρασίας. Η παστερίωση του γάλακτος έχει ως αποτέλεσμα την καταστροφή ορισμένων ενζύμων που υπάρχουν στο γάλα ή την ενεργοποίηση άλλων, ώστε τελικά οι δυο τύποι τυριών (από νωπό ή παστεριωμένο γάλα) της ίδιας ποικιλίας να ωριμάζουν.
Παρασκευή αρσενικού τυριού και παραγώγων του
Το παραδοσιακό αρσενικό τυρί Νάξου παρασκευάζεται από κατσικίσιο γάλα 80% και πρόβειο 20% ή 70% και 30% αντίστοιχα, όσο μεγαλύτερη περιεκτικότητα έχει σε κατσικίσιο γάλα τόσο πιο σκληρό είναι το τυρί. Η προσθήκη πρόβειου γάλακτος συμβάλει στην γρηγορότερη πήξη του και του δίνει μια πιο βελούδινη γεύση. Ο παραδοσιακός τρόπος παρασκευής του είναι ο παρακάτω:
Το γάλα αρμέγεται σε κάδους χάλκινους γανωμένους (χάλκινοι κάδοι με εσωτερική επάλειψη από κασσίτερο) με καλάι (κασσίτερος), αυτό βοηθάει στην αποφυγή ανάπτυξης μικροβίων και μικροοργανισμών, που είναι εύκολο σε συνθετικά δοχεία και στη μη οξείδωση του γάλακτος. Το γάλα σουρώνεται από ένα υφαντό πανί αμέσως μετά το άρμεγμα και τοποθετείται σε ένα μεγάλο χάλκινο καζάνι χωρητικότητας 100 μέχρι το πολύ 200 κιλά, που είναι επικαλυμμένο εσωτερικά με κασσίτερο. Η θερμοκρασία του γάλακτος κατά την διαδικασία της πήξης του γάλακτος θα πρέπει να είναι όση και η θερμοκρασία του σώματος του ζώου, δηλαδή 36 έως 40 C. Οι τσοπάνηδες κατά τους χειμερινούς μήνες ζεσταίνουν ελαφρώς το γάλα, του οποίου η θερμοκρασία έχει πέσει λόγω της μεταφοράς για να φτάσει στην επιθυμητή θερμοκρασία (36-40 C).Κατόπιν, χρησιμοποιούν οργανική και όχι χημική πυτιά. Η φυσική πυτιά παρασκευάζεται από ένα μικρό αρνάκι ή κατσικάκι 30 μέχρι 40 ημερών, το οποίο τρέφεται με το γάλα της μητέρας του, το πρωί γίνεται η σφαγή του μικρού αυτού ζώου, ώστε να μην περιέχει το στομάχι του τίποτα άλλο παρά το μητρικό γάλα Παίρνουν το στομαχάκι , το οποίο περιέχει το γάλα της μητέρας του. Στο στομαχάκι προσθέτεται επιπλέον λίγο αρμεγμένο γάλα από τη μητέρα του και το δένουν με κλωστή στην είσοδο και την έξοδο και μοιάζει με ασκό, ο οποίος αρτύζεται (αλατίζεται). Αυτός ο μικρός ασκός περιέχει οργανικό πηκτικό του μικρού ζώου μαζί με το γάλα της μητέρας του. Αυτό το τοποθετούμε σε μια γυάλινη φιάλη την οποία σφραγίζουμε αεροστεγώς. Μια βδομάδα αργότερα περίπου απελευθερώνεται από το στομαχάκι του ζώου μέσα στη γυάλα ένα διαυγές υγρό, το οποίο είναι η οργανική πυτιά. Η πυτιά χρησιμοποιείται για την πήξη του γάλακτος, σε 12 έως 15 κιλά γάλα χρησιμοποιούμε μια κουταλιά της σούπας πυτιά. Με ένα ξύλο από κλαδί φοίνικα αποξηραμένο ανακατεύουμε το καζάνι με το γάλα περίπου για μισή ώρα. Έτσι, αρχίζει να φαίνεται η μάζα του πηγμένου τυριού. Ο τσοπάνης-τυροκόμος παίρνει μια ποσότητα 3-4 κιλών μάζας τυριού και την τοποθετεί σε μια φόρμα τυριού φτιαγμένη από βούρλα (χόρτο που δεν σπάει και το πλέκουν) που λέγεται τσιμισκί ή τυροβόλι εκεί μέσα το ζυμώνει για τουλάχιστον 20 λεπτά, για να αφαιρεθούν όσο είναι δυνατόν τα υγρά. Η χειρωνακτική ζύμωση γίνεται κατά τους χειμερινούς μήνες, επειδή τα χόρτα είναι χλωρά το γάλα περιέχει περισσότερο. νερό και για να αφαιρεθεί απαιτείται περισσότερο ζύμωμα ( στύψιμο ).Τους καλοκαιρινούς μήνες Απρίλιο, Μάιο και Ιούνιο που έχει μεστώσει το χόρτο το γάλα δεν περιέχει μεγάλη ποσότητα νερού και το τυρί στραγγίζει μόνο του χωρίς πολύ ζύμωμα . Στο τέλος όταν αυτό στερεοποιείται ικανοποιητικά, παραμένει στο τυροβόλι. Μετά από 24 ώρες βγαίνει από τη φόρμα, αλατίζεται ελαφρώς και τοποθετείται σε ξύλινες τάβλες μέσα σε δροσερή πετρόκτιστη αποθήκη, γνωστά ως μητάτα ή σε υπόγεια. Απαγορεύεται αυστηρά ο χώρος αυτός να αερίζεται μετά από μια εβδομάδα εμβαπτίζεται σε ελαιόλαδο και μένει για παλαίωση τουλάχιστον για οχτώ μήνες. Η παλαίωση μπορεί να παραταθεί μέχρι και πέντε χρόνια. Απαραίτητη προϋπόθεση για την συντήρησή του είναι να αναποδογυρίζεται μια φορά το μήνα και να εμβαπτίζεται στο λάδι. Αφού παρέλθει ένα έτος και θέλουμε να κάνουμε μεγαλύτερης διάρκειας παλαίωση το τυρί αλείφεται σε μούργα λαδιού (κατακάθι σε βαρέλι λαδιού), η οποία είναι πιο πηκτή από το λάδι και αφήνει στο τυρί μια ξεχωριστή οσμή. Η οσμή της μούργας ταιριάζει πάρα πολύ με την οσμή που αποκτά το τυρί κατά την παλαίωση ο συνδυασμός δίνει ένα ξεχωριστό άρωμα σε αυτό. Επίσης, συχνά εμβαπτίζεται σε ώριμο κρασί, γνωστό ως κρασοτύρι, μετά τη διαδικασία αυτή το κάθε κεφάλι τυριού τυλίγεται σε λαδόκολλα και παραμένει τυλιγμένο καθ’ όλη τη διάρκεια της παλαίωση.
Το αρσενικό τυρί τους 2 εως 3 πρώτους μήνες της παρασκευής του λέγεται κωμός ή μανούρι σε αυτό η κάθε οικογένεια προσθέτει διάφορα μυρωδικά ή βότανα σε μια μικρή ποσότητα του τυριού και φτιάχνονται διάφορες παραλλαγές του αρσενικού, οι οποίες χρησιμοποιούνται για σαγανάκι. Η ποικιλία είναι μεγάλη, εφόσον προσθέτεται σε αυτό σκόρδο, φτιάχνεται το σκορδότυρο, λιαστή ντομάτα με πάπρικα και διάφορα άλλα μπαχαρικά.
Το τραπέζι πάνω στο οποίο γίνεται η επεξεργασία της ζύμωσης λέγεται τυρόσκαμνο και είναι φτιαγμένο από ξύλο ή μάρμαρο, στην περίμετρό του είναι αυλακωτό και έχει μια δίοδο από την οποία φεύγει το υγρό που μαζεύεται από τη ζύμωση, το οποίο ονομάζεται τσίρος. Το υγρό αυτό καταλήγει σε ένα δοχείο, το οποίο χύνεται ξανά στο αρχικό καζάνι που είναι το υπόλοιπο τυρόγαλα ή τσίρος σε αυτό προστίθεται, μια ποσότητα περίπου 10% του συνολικού περιεχομένου, φρέσκο γάλα. Αυτό βράζεται μέχρι να αφρίσει, ο αφρός αυτός είναι πηκτός, επειδή δεν έχει αφαιρεθεί από αυτό η κρέμα γάλακτος ούτε το γιαούρτι. Ο πηκτός αυτός αφρός συλλέγεται με τρυπητές κουτάλες και τοποθετείται σε τσιμισκί ή τυροβόλια χωρίς να γίνεται καμία ζύμωση από τον τσοπάνη. Την επόμενη μέρα τοποθετείται σε ευάερα σημεία, οι τσοπάνηδες έχουν φτιάξει μικρά μητάτα χρησιμοποιώντας την μέθοδο της ξερολιθιάς, έτσι ώστε να περνάει συνεχώς αέρας μέσα σε αυτά. Τα μητάτα χτίζονται σε κορυφές λόφων που λέγονται ανεμοχορέφτρες . Τα σημεία αυτά επιλέγονται, ώστε και σε περίοδο άπνοιας να δημιουργούνται ρεύματα αέρα. Αν ο τσίρος δεν αερίζεται αμέσως θα ’βρωμίσει’ (χαλάσει). Το τυρί αυτό που θα βγει όταν περάσουν έξι μήνες λέγεται ξηραμένο ανθότυρο ή γαλοτύρι ή θηλυκοτύρι είναι ένα παράγωγο του αρσενικού με χαμηλά λιπαρά.
Η παραδοσιακή διαδικασία παρασκευής του Αρσενικού Νάξου
- Παραδοσιακή στάνη.
- Αιγοπρόβατα.
- Άρμεγμα.
- Καζάνι γανωμένο με καλάι.
- Ανακατεύοντας το γάλα και αφαιρώντας το τυρί από το καζάνι.
- Τοποθετώντας το πήγμα του τυριού στο τσιμισκί και στύβοντάς το.
- Το τυρί έχει στερεοποιηθεί ικανοποιητικά και αφαιρείται από το τυροβόλι.
Η περίοδος παρασκευής του Αρσενικού είναι από της 20 Δεκεμβρίου όπου απογαλακτίζονται τα κατσίκια μέχρι τις 30 Απριλίου. Το καλύτερο αρσενικό είναι το απριλιάτικο, διότι κατά την διάρκεια του μήνα Απρίλη υπάρχει μεγάλη ποικιλία θάμνων, βοτάνων και χλωρού χόρτου. Επίσης μετά τον Απρίλιο μέχρι και τέλος Ιουνίου που τα χόρτα είναι μεστά παράγεται περισσότερη μάζα τυριού από μικρότερη ποσότητα γάλακτος. Για να γίνει μια ικανοποιητική ποσότητα τυριού απαιτείται και μια μεγάλη ποσότητα γάλακτος , επειδή όμως το γάλα στις κατσίκες και τα πρόβατα λιγοστεύει το Μάιο συγκεντρώνουν πολλοί χωρικοί το γάλα τους σε ενός χωρικού το καζάνι. Εκεί χρησιμοποιούν για το μέτρημα ένα καλάμι, με το οποίο μετράνε την ποσότητα γάλακτος, κάθε χωρικού, σε εκατοστά του καλαμιού που είναι όρθιο μέσα στο καζάνι και ανάλογα με το μήκος της ράβδου λαμβάνουν την αντίστοιχη ποσότητα τυριού. Το φαινόμενο της σταδιακής μείωσης γάλακτος του κάθε ζώου λέγεται άργωμα, παραδείγματος χάρη όταν σε ένα σπίτι λιγοστέψει το γάλα από τις κατσίκες λένε ότι άργωσαν και αυτό επιτείνεται όσο πλησιάζει η περίοδος του επόμενου ζευγαρώματος. Η περίοδος, αυτή ως επί το πλείστον είναι ο Ιούνιος, τα ζώα συνεχίζουν να βγάζουν γάλα και κατά τον πρώτο μήνα της κύησης όπου σταδιακά σταματάει εντελώς αυτόν τον μήνα το γάλα δεν το τυροκομούν σε αρσενικό τυρί καθώς δεν βοηθάει η ζέστη του καλοκαιριού την τυροκόμηση με απαστερίωτο γάλα. Επίσης το γάλα είναι λιγότερο, έτσι όλοι το φτιάχνουν στο σπίτι τους σε μικρά κεφαλάκια, που ονομάζεται ξινότυρο.
Στο σημείο αυτό πρέπει να τονίσουμε ότι δοκιμάστηκε να παραχθεί αρσενικό τυρί από εκμεταλλεύσεις ζώων αιγοπροβάτων σε σύγχρονες μονάδες εκτροφής. Επειδή τα ζώα τρώγανε συμπληρώματα έτοιμων τροφών το παραγόμενο γάλα είναι ακατάλληλο για την παραδοσιακή παρασκευή του αρσενικού τυριού καθώς το τυρί που παράγεται έχει την οσμή των έτοιμων τροφών και όχι το φυσιολογικό. Επιπλέον, είναι άγευστο και έχει σκούρο φαιό χρώμα. Ειδικά όταν δοκιμάστηκε η παραγωγή του από ζώα που τρώγανε βαμβακόπιτα το τυρί βρώμισε. Το αρσενικό τυρί φτιάχνεται αποκλειστικά και μόνο από αιγοπρόβατα ελευθέρας βοσκής που δεν τρώνε έτοιμες τροφές, αλλά τον χειμώνα που εκλείπει η τροφή μπορεί να φάνε για συμπλήρωμα μόνο σανό ντόπιο ή κάποιο δημητριακό κυρίως κριθάρι. Στο σημείο αυτό μπορούμε να πούμε ότι όσο μεγαλύτερο είναι το υψόμετρο, ο τόπος ευάερος και η βιοποικιλότητα της χλωρίδας είναι πιο πολύμορφη τόσο περισσότερο και πιο ποιοτικό , αρωματικό και εύγευστο είναι το αρσενικό τυρί.
Διακρίσεις των προϊόντων της Νάξου και του αρσενικού
Το αρσενικό τυρί Νάξου έχει ανακοινωθεί από το περιοδικό Τυροκομία ως το πλουσιότερο σε ασβέστιο μεταξύ όλων των τυριών που συγκρίθηκαν ελληνικών και μη. Αυτό οφείλεται στα βότανα που φυτρώνουν στα βουνά, των οποίων η δομή είναι από ασβεστολιθικό πέτρωμα και βρίσκουν τα ζώα κατά την ελεύθερη βόσκησή τους. Επίσης στην επίσημη ιστοσελίδα της Greenpeace από πληθώρα γαλακτοκομικών προϊόντων (ελληνικών και μη) που έχουν χαρακτηριστεί κόκκινα και πορτοκαλί τα γαλακτοκομικά της Νάξου χαρακτηρίζονται πράσινα, με αυτόν τον τρόπο η Greenpeace χαρακτηρίζει τα προϊόντα ως οικολογικά ή μη οικολογικά (πράσινα θεωρούνται ως τα περισσότερο οικολογικά). Επιπλέον, φέτος στις 2 Μαΐου στο ξενοδοχείο Μεγάλη Βρετάνια όπου έλαβε χώρα ο διαγωνισμός καλύτερου σεφ στην Ελλάδα και είχε ως νικητή τον σεφ Έκτορα Μποντρίνι, τα προιόντα της Νάξου ήρθαν στην πρώτη θέση και χαρακτηρίστηκαν ως υπέροχα. Τα τυροκομικά της προϊόντα ξεχώρισαν ιδιαίτερα και χαρακτηρίστηκαν κορυφαία από τον σεφ κ. Ευαγγέλου Σωτήρη, ο οποίος προέκρινε το αρσενικό τετραετούς παλαίωσης σε μούργα λαδιού ως το κορυφαίο. Επίσης κατέχει την πρώτη θέση στα καλύτερα εστιατόρια της Ελλάδας, όπως Μεγάλη Βρετάνια και Milos Hilton.
Εδώ και πενήντα χρόνια κάθε χρόνο την μεγάλη βδομάδα γίνεται ένα υπαίθριο παζάρι όπου πωλούνται μεγάλες ποσότητες αυτού του τυριού ελεύθερα και είναι γνωστό στις υγειονομικές υπηρεσίες οι οποίες αφενός δεν έχουν δώσει επίσημη άδεια , δεν τους εμποδίζουν, όμως σιωπηρά το επιτρέπουν.
Πριν δυο χρόνια το ελληνικό περιοδικό Τυροκομία συνεργάστηκε με το ελληνικό πανεπιστήμιο έκανε τριετή έρευνα και απεφάνθη ότι το αρσενικό τυρί του τσοπάνη με απαστερίωτο γάλα έφερε μικροβιακό φορτίο σε κανονικά, μη απαγορευτικά πλαίσια σύμφωνα με τους κανονισμούς του οργανισμού τροφίμων και της ευρωπαϊκής ένωσης και έτσι σιωπηρά παράγεται και διαθέτεται σε εκείνους που το ζητούν. Ένα παρόμοιο περιστατικό έλαβε χώρα στην βόρεια Γαλλία σε κάποια χωριά, όπου οι τσοπάνηδες πήραν σχετική άδεια από την ευρωπαϊκή ένωση καθώς απέδειξαν ότι μετά από τετράμηνη παλαίωση του τυριού υφίστανται τέτοιες ζυμώσεις, οι οποίες αποφορτίζουν το προϊόν από το μικροβιακό του φορτίο και είναι στα επίπεδα του τυριού που προέρχεται από παστεριωμένο γάλα και έτσι τους επέτρεψαν την νόμιμη εκμετάλλευση του. Στην Νάξο οι τσοπάνηδες δεν έχουν κάποια τέτοια έγκριση, διότι χρειάζεται πολύ γραφειοκρατία για να βγει και το προϊόν τους είναι τόσο περιζήτητο, ώστε το ανταλλάσουν χέρι με χέρι και δεν το πουλούν στην αγορά.
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to remember to put it in. Your dentist could make a plastic or acrylic appliance for you to put on at night time.
Your dentist will need to see you usually to verify for any tooth movement or cavities
that might consequence from wearing such an equipment. This can lead
to delicate teeth and tooth decay, and it can even cause harm to expensive dental work.
Stress, it is now believed, is the main trigger of grinding and clenching your teeth,
say dental researchers. The problem with bruxism, as the behavior of grinding and clenching is known as, is the wear
and tear in your teeth. AARON: Yeah, I do eye exercises
so I don’t should put on glasses.
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